Caring for Cats
Caring for Cats
How Cats Learn
it is a myth that cats can not be trained, cats can do almost anything a dog can do, they just aren’t quite as motivated as a dog to do the things you ask
Kittens from a very young age can be toilet trained with little effort, teaching them other things are a matter of finding the right motivation.
Multi Cat households
Multi-cat households are from feral colonies because the needs that keep feral colonies together aren’t there for pet cats. Responsible owners make sure their cats are desexed so they have no biological urge to reproduce, and they don’t have to hunt for food because it’s given to them at regular mealtimes in their food bowl. Don’t forget that cats have different personalities, so like humans, they might not get on with every other cat. When we have them as pets in multi-cat households we force them to live with other cats, not of their choosing, it’s important to provide a happy and calm environment.
How do we know if our cats are living happily together, for most cats thy will display either positive or neutral or negative responses to other cats.
Positive/neutral – Cats in multi-cat household might sleep together, groom and scent mark each other and play together. This is the ideal situation, but it’s also ok if they ignore and avoid each other – as long as there are no behavioural problems on top of the avoidance.
Negative – These cats will fight and show outright aggression toward each other, often causing stress-related illnesses and behaviours like inappropriate elimination, or territorial behaviours like urine spraying or marking of territory. They may also roam and stay away from home. However we would recommend all cats are kept indoors unless supervised on a leash and harness. PAWS Darwin foster cats are required to be kept indoors at all times.
Not all domesticated cats will fight over territory, so it’s important to be aware of the signs when there are problems. Issues such as staring (as we know, a sign of aggression) until the other cat moves, one cat leaving the room if the other comes in and the blocking of doorways and passageways. If a cat’s access to the litter tray is blocked by another, more dominant cat, then serious problems can occur that include urine spraying, inappropriate urination and cystitis.
Physical fighting is often down to competition over territory and resources, It is important to make sure there are enough of the following for all cats in the household:
Litter trays
Food and Water bowls
Beds
Scratching posts or furniture
High vantage points
The rule for all of these is one per cat, plus one extra, and they should be spread out throughout the house. It’s also important that there’s enough space for cats so they can each have their own space, as it makes them feel more secure. This doesn’t always mean living in a mansion, it does mean though that they need plenty of high dwelling spaces including cat trees, shelving and the tops of furniture to help expand their territory upwards.
Introducing a new cat
A new cat should always be kept in one room when they first arrive to help them acclimatise to their new (foster) home, which also has the added benefit of making it easier to integrate with an existing cat. Advice saying ‘throw them together and let them sort it out between them’, really isn’t the way to make a successful cat-to-cat introduction! It’s a matter of taking the time to do it properly, because a bad introduction can cause problems between them that might never be resolved.
The existing cat will be able to smell the new cat through the door, and at first will see the new cat as an intruder, so owners should expect some hissing and growling. As scent is such an important feline sense, you can use a soft cloth (or even a sock) to pick up the new cat’s scent from its facial glands, followed by the existing cat, other pets and even human family members, and you could leave it by the existing cat’s bed.
When the scents are mixed like this, they will eventually make up a new group scent and the existing cat will start to see the newcomer as part of the family.
The next step is to make sure that both cats have positive associations with the other, and this is done by feeding them on either side of the door. To begin with, the cats might not want to go anywhere near each other, so the food bowls might have to start quite far from either side of the door. The bowls can be moved closer every time, and eventually they’ll be eating on either side of the door, and will associate the other cat’s scent with good times (food!). You should also start ‘site swapping’ at this point, where they shut the existing cat in the new cat’s room while the new cat explores. This has the added bene!t of mixing their scents even more, and then the door can be opened slightly while they eat on either side of it. It’s often a slow process and is different for every introduction. It may take days, weeks, months or years for two cats to become friends, or it may never happen.
Urination vs. Spraying
As previously discussed, urine spraying is a very natural feline behaviour and a method of communication between cats. When a cat (either male or female) sprays, it backs up to a vertical surface, lifts up its tail, treads its front paws and lets go a stream, thus marking their territory. Urination takes place with the cat squatting and isn’t usually anything to do with the cat’s territory. If an owner has a cat with inappropriate urination issues they might complain that their cat is ‘spraying’, but it’s important to know the difference and recognise that there are usually very different reasons for the two types of behaviour.
Reasons for Toileting Issues
Toileting issues and inappropriate elimination (urinating and defecating in places other than the litter tray) are problems that many cat owners will be familiar with, but when it happens on a regular basis it can lead to frustration and distress, on the part of the cat as well as the owner. As with most unwanted feline behaviours, there’s usually a logical reason behind toileting issues, and simply by working out the underlying cause it can be treated and stopped. Inappropriate elimination, both urine and faeces, can be caused by a number of different reasons, and we’re going to look at exactly what it could be.
Illness
There is a whole range of physical health issues that could cause a cat to have toileting issues, so it’s always vital to eliminate all possibilities with a visit to the vet in the first instance.
Upset stomachs – If a cat has diarrhoea, it’s not always going to be able to get to the litter tray in time. While it’s one of the more unpleasant instances for an owner to have to clean up, at least it’s an obvious sign that something is wrong with your cat. Diarrhoea could be caused by a number of things that aren’t serious, including a change in diet, eating something outside that disagrees with the cat or a mild infection. There are, however, more sinister causes of diarrhoea in cats, like tumours or serious illnesses, so it should always be checked out by a vet if it lasts longer than 24 hours or comes with other symptoms like lethargy or blood in the stools.
Cystitis – Any urinary tract infection like cystitis can cause symptoms that lead to toileting issues. The need to go constantly means that the cat doesn’t always have time to get to the litter tray before it urinates, and it might begin to associate the pain while urinating with the litter tray itself, so chooses to go in less suitable places. Feline urinary tract infections can cause serious problems, so if an owner notices that their cat is straining to urinate without producing much or has blood in its urine, they should take it to the vet immediately. Cystitis is usually caused by a bacterial infection or crystals or stones that form in the bladder, but if that’s not the case then it could be a sign of Feline Idiopathic Cystitis, which will be covered in more detail later on in this module.
Excessive thirst – There are a number of conditions, such as kidney disease and diabetes, that increase a cat’s thirst and lead to them drinking much more frequently, as a result of which they may not be able to get to the litter tray in time.
Age – While not an illness, as cats get older they’re more likely to su!er from issues such as incontinence, arthritis and confusion, which can all lead to inappropriate elimination.
Territorial Problems
As we know, territory is such an important part of a cat’s social behaviour, so when it’s threatened it can cause all sorts of problems, including issues with toileting. Here are some of the territorial problems that can cause toileting issues.
Location – If it’s in a multi-cat household, one or more of the cats might have marked out the litter tray as their own territory, and demonstrated that by blocking the other cat(s)’ path to it – hence the reason it’s recommended having one litter tray per cat plus one more in any multi-cat household.
Issues going outside - If a cat has been frightened by a strange cat while it’s toileting outside, it might associate going outside with that fear and be too scared to go anywhere but indoors. If there’s no litter tray indoors, then of course there are going to be problems.
Discomfort
If a cat doesn’t want to use the litter tray it could be as simple as there being something about the tray or the litter that’s uncomfortable.
Type of litter – Not all cats will be comfortable with all types of litter. Cats that are overweight or have a sore foot might have problems treading on certain types of litter, or they just might not like the feeling of it under their feet. Trying different types of litter is often something that resolves toileting issues.
Size of tray – Smaller trays are great for kittens, but what about when the cat grows up? Cats need to have enough room to move and turn around in their litter trays, so a tray that’s too small can be very off putting.
Type of tray - Arthritic or very short legs can cause problems for cats trying to step in and out of high-sided litter trays, but there are trays available with lowered sides for this very problem. Some cats don’t like the covered type of tray either, and again, just because it suits the owners to keep the mess and smell covered up, it doesn’t mean it’s right for their cat.
Location of the Litter Tray
The location of the litter tray can make a huge difference to cats’ toileting behaviours. Trays should be located in a quiet corner, away from busy areas of the home, and nowhere near a window or patio door that could make the cat using it territorially insecure. The owners should think about their own toileting habits; would they like to go where there were lots of people around?
Signs of Feline Stress
The physical signs of a stressful situation are usually easy to spot.
Dilated pupils
Tensed body
Excessive lip licking
Sensitivity to noise and movement Panting
Hissing Growling
The behavioural symptoms are not always so apparent. The following are a number of behavioural issues that could be caused by stress, among other things.
Urine spraying Over-grooming Aggression
Loss of appetite Hiding
Becoming quiet Not wanting to play
If a cat is naturally quiet, it’s often harder to see signs that it’s anxious or stressed, which is why it’s always essential that owners take their cats to the vet if any changes in behaviour become apparent, in order to rule out any underlying health problems.
Some Causes of Feline Stress
Separation anxiety – Although more commonly an issue with dogs, cats can certainly su$er from separation anxiety when their carer leaves them alone. Separation anxiety is more common in cats that are the only pet in the home; signs include excessive vocalisation when the carer leaves and returns, urinating or defecating on the carer’s belongings (in an attempt to sooth through scent mixing and over-grooming.
Too much or too little physical contact – On the "ip-side, some cats are more solitary than others and aren’t keen on physical contact. It’s natural for carer’s to want to pet, stroke and cuddle their cats, but a cat that doesn’t like this type of behaviour can be left in a constant state of anxiety and arousal, waiting for the next time it gets ‘mauled’. Alternatively, some cats thrive on physical contact, so when they don’t receive it from their carers’s they can get depressed and stressed, so the personality of the cat needs to be taken into account when it comes to physical contact.
Territorial stress – territorial stress is more common in a multi-cat household where cats have to share resources, but it can also come about if there are other cats in the area.
Disruption to routine – Cats take comfort in their usual routines, so any change can cause immense stress. Whether it’s a new addition in the form of another pet or a new baby, a change in living conditions, home renovation or a house move, it’s important that cats are considered and everything possible done to minimise stress.
Trauma – A traumatic experience from a companion animal dying to just being shouted at can cause stress that continues past the initial shock.
The Physical Development of Kittens
Just as with dogs, a young cat's experiences and socialisation can have a great impact on many aspects of their behaviour as adults. To make good pets in the future, they need to be healthy, happy and able to live with people, and their early learning and behaviour can make that happen.
From birth-2 Weeks
Their eyes are fully open by week two, but before this, they have to rely on scent and touch to know what’s going on around them. During this early period, they don’t move around much and are completely dependent on the mother cat and her milk. Kittens are unable to eliminate by themselves for the first few weeks of their lives; mother cat licks their genitals and anus to stimulate elimination. If you are a foster carer of unbothered kittens then you will need to to help baby kittens to eliminate.
From 3-4 Weeks
Their teeth are starting to develop at this age, and by week four they’ll start to move around a lot more. They still won’t be confident away from mother cat, and if one strays too far away from its mother, it will stop and cry out to her. When she hears her kitten’s cry, she’ll come to collect it and bring it back to the nest. They’ll start to be more dextrous around this time and will be able to right themselves if they fall over. If living in natural conditions (for example farm or feral cats), this is the time when the mother would start bringing prey back to teach her kittens how to kill, so the weaning process would naturally begin (see Weaning, further in this module).
5-6 Weeks
Kittens of this age are increasingly mobile, and they might even be able to catch and kill any live prey their mother brings back to the nest. They’re also now able to eliminate without needing their mother’s tongue to stimulate the process. Kittens of five to six weeks will start to play with their littermates, practicing behaviours that they’ will use as adult cats,
From 7-8 Weeks
Weaning is usually complete by eight weeks’ old, and the kittens are beginning to explore the world a lot more on their own.
Weaning
Weaning is the process during which kittens make the transition from their mother’s milk to solid food, and is an essential part of raising healthy kittens.
In natural conditions the mother would facilitate weaning at the right time by bringing solid food or prey back to her growing kittens – at first, prey she’s already killed, followed by live prey when the kittens are old enough, as part of teaching her young to catch and kill for themselves. In a domestic environment, where mother cat and her kittens are pets, the weaning is ultimately down to the owner, although they can take their lead from the cats themselves.
Carers should begin to offer solid food (wet food) at around three to four weeks of age, on a shallow plate or saucer, and if the kittens don’t seem to be interested, owners can o!er a small bit to them on their fingertips to attract the kittens’ interest. The kittens are also likely to trample through the food, as well as getting it all over their faces, so it should be removed once they’ve eaten enough. The kittens will probably consume a mixture of solid food and their mother’s milk until they’re completed weaned, which is usually by eight weeks. Kitten food, either wet or dry (dry food can be moistened slightly with water or kitten milk) is essential as it’s formulated especially for the nutritional needs of growing kittens. Cows milk is no good for baby animals especially Kittens and puppies.
Weaning kittens too early can cause stress for both mother and kittens, and deprive the kittens of the valuable nutrients that they need that come from their mother’s milk. If kittens are orphaned before they’re weaned, they usually end up being hand-reared by rescue staff or volunteers, which is a stressful time for all involved because it isn’t always easy to keep the orphaned kittens alive. Kittens being hand-reared need to be fed every couple of hours, using the right type of formula milk and the right feeding technique. Even then, hand-reared kittens don’t always survive because their immune systems aren’t yet cut out for protecting them against the world.
Worming
Kittens should be wormed every two weeks from birth until they are 3 months old. Then they should be wormed mostly till six months of age then depending on the type of wormer that is being used but three monthly worming should take place from 6 months of age
If at any time you are concerned for the health of the cat you should call the PAWS Darwin Community Vet on 894750650 or facebook PAWS Darwin Community Vet.
If you have other concerns with fostering a cat then please contact the shelter team on 89471272